Perched on the edge of the altiplano, on our way to La Paz we overlook a landscape of magnificent - although somewhat
stark - beauty. As we head in from the international airport, the plateau breaks without warning and reveals this deep, jagged
valley that cradles the town. The altitude in La Paz ranges from approximately 10,000 to 12,000 ft, an elevation so high
that even the locals walk slowly. If you find yourself feeling a little light-headed it is suggested that you sit,
take a nap or sip a rejuvenating potion made from the coca leaf called Mate de Coca.
Nearly half of the city's residents, approximately 1.5 million, live in poorly constructed adobe or brick homes located
in La Paz and the valleys that encircle the town. In downtown La Paz (below) the feeling is more cosmopolitan,
as buses, taxis, business executives and Aymara Indians share the city's cobblestone streets. The mixture of unique
museums, governmental buildings, colonial architecture, folklore and atmospheric street life make La Paz one of
South America's most unusual and lively cities. The streets, made of slippery bricks, are steep and tiring in the thin
mountain air, but are so full of interest that one can hardly wait to press on (exhausted or not).
The pacenos themselves, the city's inhabitants, are what make this place unforgettable. This South American city holds
firm to its past. Many of the women still wear traditional clothing every day: colourful multi-layered petticoats, fringed shawls,
lace aprons, and all sorts of hats! You see these women everywhere - on buses, in the churches, out shopping, or setting
up their own shops. The city is one giant street market; the people often set up stalls under plastic awnings for shade
or just sit on the sidewalk, as this woman does.
The front view of our now favourite hotel, Hotel Roserio, in La Paz. The interior of this 25-year old converted mansion,
features rich dark wood, colonial style architecture, a sunny flower filled courtyard, restaurant with live Bolivian folk music,
ethnic fair trade handicraft shop, and museum-style lounge area filled with all kinds of information about the
local traditions and Aymara culture. (They even have "oxygen on request") The rooms are small, but
cozy in a charming way, with parquet floors and bright Andean-style bedspreads.
This area is known as the Witch Doctors' Market. Here, you can purchase a rather ghoulish selection of charms, herbs,
spices, magic potions, good-luck trinkets and all the makings for a proper offering to Pachamama. You can also purchase
a tiny bottle full of coloured pieces of wood and oil, which, depending on its contents, will bring good luck with love,
money or health. Plaster statuettes in the form of frogs, turtles and snakes are said to bring good fortune,
long life and personal success in life, respectively. Various other statuettes of Inca gods are also available.
Llama fetuses are one of the most popular items for sale here and are used as an offering to Pachamama (Mother Earth).
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