Page 8
South America - Bolivia and Peru Trip in December 2003
Cusco, Peru
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This is the oldest surviving Inca
wall in Cusco and one of the most distinguished.
Just to the right of the woman is the famed 12-angled stone
magnificently fitted into the wall.
Although this large stone is
impressively cut, the Incas almost routinely fitted many-cornered
stones
(with
as many as 44 angles, as seen in Machu Picchu) into structures like
pieces of a jigsaw puzzle.
The Museo Inka is housed in the
impressive Admirals Palace, Cusco's finest colonial mansions, with a
superbly ornate portal
indicating the importance of its owner. The house was built on
top of yet another Inca palace in the 17th century. The museum
is a great introduction to Inca culture. Artifacts are
displayed in various rooms designed to help the visitor trace Peruvian
history
from pre-Inca civilizations and Inca culture including the impact of
the Spanish conquest and colonial times on the culture. On
display are ceramics, textiles, jewelery, mummies, and the world's
largest
collection of Inca drinking vessels,
carved out of wood, many
meticulously painted.
The Spaniards were greatly in awe of
the Inca capital, which they captured in 1533. Spanish chronicles
describe Cusco as "the richest city in the Indies, because it was
filled with treasure for the grandeur of gods."
The Incas regarded gold and silver as sacred. Gold was called the
"Sweat of the Sun",
associated with the sun god,
and silver was known as the "Tears of the Moon". The Incas were highly skilled metalsmiths,
they knew how to hammer
metal into thin sheets, creating a raised pattern on the reverse
side. They also knew how to solder, and how to cast in molds.
Objects exquisitely crafted in silver and gold were valued for
their symbolism and reserved for luxury and ceremonial uses.
Weaving was another art form that was
highly respected during Inca times.
As
seen here Cumbi, the finest cloth, was one of
the privileges that only the Inca nobles enjoyed.
The wool of the wild vicuna was used for the garments of the
elite. An elaborate
tapestry tunic worn
by the emperor usually came from the skilled hands of women
in religious service, and could have as many as 400 ends per inch.
The Santo Domingo Church was once the
Templo del Qoricancha - the Temple of the Sun -
the most
magnificent complex in Cusco. Its walls (the exquisitely hand-polished
stone walls, seen below)
were covered by gold, and windows were
constructed so the sun would shine directly into a niche where only the
Inca
chieftain was permitted to sit. Dedicated to the
worship of the sun the temple was the main astronomical observatory
for
the Incas. Within the gold panels, lining its walls, there were
life-sized gold figures, solid gold altars, and a huge golden sun
disc.
Other temples and shrines existed for the worship of lesser
gods: the Moon, Venus, Thunder, Lightning and the
Rainbow.
After the Spaniards ransacked the
temple and emptied it of gold, they built the Convent of Santo Domingo
upon the original Inca foundations. The baroque
church pales (as seen behind the stone walls) next to the fine masonry
of the Incas.
Inca architecture was based on a method of stacking blocks of
granite one
upon another, with no mortar to hold them together.
The 20-foot
curved wall beneath the church (notice it as the darker black stone in
photo, two above) remains undamaged by
repeated earthquakes. The curvature
and fit of the massive stones is astounding,
and represents one of the
greatest examples of Inca stonework.
The cathedral (seen earlier in the
Plaza de Armas) built on what was once the palace of Inca Viracocha,
mixes Spanish Renaissance architecture with the stone-working
skills of
the Incas, and took a century to build.
Completed in 1669, the
cathedral possesses some 400 paintings of the distinguished Cusquena
School, painted from the
16th to the 18th centuries. The main
altar is fashioned from solid-silver (mined in Bolivia), weighs more
than 882
pounds and features patron saints of Cusco. (below)
There are also amazing woodcarvings,
including spectacular cedar choir stalls with saints, popes,
and bishops,
all in stunning detail down to their delicately articulated hands.
To the right of the main altar is a particular Peruvian painting of the
Last Supper, showing Christ and his
Indian-looking apostles dinning on Cuy
(roast guinea pig) and
drinking Chicha (fermented maize
beer).
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