Page 7
South America - Bolivia and Peru Trip in December 2003
Cusco, Peru
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The next day we arrive in Cusco,
Peru. Peru is often referred to as the land of the Incas.
The Incas called their empire
Tahuantinsuya, meaning "the Four Quarters of the World". The
empire was divided into four regions and stretched
for 2,500 miles from what is now northern Ecuador to central
Chile. Cusco, at
its heart, is the country's most magnificent
city, the Florence of Latin America known for
its art and
architecture. With a population of 300,000 it is Peru's oldest
continuously inhabited city. Spectacularly cradled by the
southeastern Andes mountains, Cusco sits
at a daunting 11,000 ft.
Along with its highlights of
colonial-era baroque and Renaissance churches, Cusco also
serves as a jumping-off point
for trips to the Nazca plain, Machu
Picchu and many other Inca and pre-Inca sites.
The Inca considered Cusco the
navel of the universe; at the time it was the most developed culture in
the
southern hemisphere. That was until the Spanish arrived in
1532. They destroyed the Inca temples
replacing them
with their Mediterranean architecture and subjecting the
Peruvian people to conditions near slavery. It took less than
forty years
from
the time of the arrival of the Spanish for the last Inca leader, Tupac
Amaru, to fall. The Spanish ruled Peru for 250 years
until Peru
declared its independence in 1821. It is now a fairly modern
Andean community and home
to the Mestizo (persons with both Indian and Spanish blood) culture of
today.
In the heart of the historic
center is the Plaza de Armas. In the Inca times it was the exact
center of the empire
and the spot where the most important religious and military
ceremonies were held. The plaza has
two of Cusco's foremost
churches and the remains of original Inca
walls, thought to be the foundation of the Inca Pachacutec's palace.
A short but steep walk up the
cobblestone hill from the Plaza de Armas is the picturesque
neighborhood of
San Blas.
Many of the pedestrian-only streets are lined with traditional
artists' studios,
artisans' workshops and whitewashed adobe homes.
On our way up we
meet our 11 year old
friend, Kavi, who offers to guide us to the top of the neighborhood
where we
find
some
of the most spectacular panoramic vistas in the city.
Individual homes still look
much as they always have, usually consisting of adobe bricks,
dirt
floors, and roofs either of clay tile or thatched grass.
Kavi is a bright and friendly
Peruvian boy, eagerly developing his English skills at school.
According to
law, children are supposed to attend school through the third
grade. Many children don't go at all or drop out
after one or two grades, needed for their work at home or sent out to
try to earn money. City boys shine shoes,
run errands or try to sell things on the local streets, (although their
sales techniques can sometimes be a little too persistent).
Cusco thrives on a vibrant tourist industry and Kavi hopes to
one day become a very knowledgeable tourist guide.
We bought Kavi lunch and spent a
couple of hours with him seeing the
sights of San Blas
and learning about daily life in Peru.
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